1. I’ve been shopping for a digital camera but I’m overwhelmed with the choices. What features are really important to me?

Adequate mega-pixel size is essential for producing quality shots. A good choice for most is a 5 or 6 mega pixel camera. It will provide a lot of detail for sharp enlargements – even with serious cropping. Cameras over 6 mega pixels record even more detail, but they also result in larger file sizes, fewer photos per memory card and slower processing. Conversely, too few mega-pixels will produce poor quality photos.

Consider a camera with a long optical zoom. (Digital zooms are of little of no value.) Most digital cameras have a 3X optical zoom, but you can get up to 12x. A 3x optical zoom is fine for most family pictures, but it may not get you close enough when your horse is on the far side of the paddock, picking up the blue ribbon in the center of the ring or rounding the third barrel. A long optical zoom paired with image stabilization is probably the ultimate camera for taking photos of your horse, but don’t expect it to be pocket sized. If you already have a good digital camera, you may be able to purchase a “teleconverter” to extend the optical zoom.
Look to see if the camera offers a “burst” feature. The burst feature will take 4 to 8 pictures, about one a second, as long as you hold the shutter release down. Ever snap a photo just as your horse’s ears go in opposite directions or just as he blinks? With the “burst” feature, the camera takes three or four shots in quick succession, and you greatly improve your chances of getting the ears up and eyes open. (Remember, with a digital camera you can delete pictures that aren’t perfect, and it costs you nothing.)

2. My digital camera came with an owner’s manual the size of a novel and way too many buttons, modes and menus. Does this really have to be so complicated?

All digital cameras have an “AUTO” function, and this is a good place to start. Remember, your first objective is a well-composed photograph. If you concentrate on composition, the camera in “AUTO” will usually take care of the focus and exposure. You might have to do a little tweaking on the computer later, but at least you will have something you can work with. Most special effects built into the camera can be recreated later on the computer. As you become more expert, you can gradually learn to use the advanced features.

3. What is “shutter lag”?

Some higher-end digital cameras focus quickly, but most take about a half-second. A half-second may not sound like much until you miss the precise moment when your horse is well-behaved. You will need to practice pre-focusing. Point your camera at the subject, then press and hold the shutter release halfway. As long as the distance between the camera and the horse does not change dramatically, this pre-focus will be correct until you press the release the rest of the way. If your horse moves after you have pre-focused, release the shutter button briefly and pre-focus again. Anything beyond 15 to 20 feet is “infinity”, and at that distance movement towards and away from the camera probably will not be noticed. Movement across the viewfinder at the same distance won’t matter either.

4. I want to take some close-ups, a good portrait and a halter pose. What is the best time of day to take these pictures?

Pictures taken in the bright mid-day Florida sun will probably have too much contrast, resulting in harsh shadows and squinty eyes. You will be happier with pictures taken in early morning or late afternoon. If the sun is low in the sky, it should be at your back. If you must take pictures at noon, a light overcast or some open shade will help soften shadows. Moving your horse under a tall oak tree will give you the shade, but make sure the lowest branches are still well above the horse and out of the frame. Try using the flash even on the brightest day.

5. What else do I need to think about when taking close-ups and halter poses?

Well-groomed horses make the best close-ups, but don’t pass up a horse that isn’t in 100 percent show condition. A little computer grooming can trim some long hairs, wipe a dirty nose and even remove tangles from manes and tails.
For a classic halter pose, you will need a handler who can get the feet right and the ears up. Don’t worry about what the handler is wearing; you can crop him or her out later.
Take a moment to check the background. Your horse will stand out from a dark, natural background (thick trees or a hedge). Man-made backgrounds, like the side of a barn, rarely look good. A round pen with dark wood sides might work well and will help confine your horse if you want some photos at liberty. Regardless of the background you choose, always try to have some extra space between it and the horse. Make sure there are no large objects such as trailers or tractors in sight. Other horses are always a distraction. Small, undesirable objects can be eliminated or minimized later by computer, but dealing with something as complicated as a pipe round pen will be tedious.
The most common picture fault is too much blank space around the subject. Move or zoom in close enough to fill your viewfinder. Most viewfinders show less than 90 percent of the final image, so you can get really close and not cut off anything important. Try squatting down a little; shooting level or slightly up looks best and helps eliminate distracting backgrounds.

6. What about some pictures of my horse in action?

If you want pictures of your horse under saddle, position yourself more or less in the center of the ring, about 20 feet from the rail. If you are shooting when the sun is low in the sky, try to have it at your back. Take a look at the background and avoid having anything distracting within 50 feet. Frame your shot with a fence post at each edge of the viewfinder, giving you an 8-foot “window”. Pre-focus on the ground or on the rail, and take the picture just as the horse is centered in your “window.” This would be a good time to use the “burst” feature if your camera has one. Press and hold the shutter release just as the horse enters the “window” and let the camera take three or four images. Preview your shots before the next pass to make sure you haven’t left too much space around the image or cut off anything important.
If you want liberty shots, move your horse to a smaller paddock or large round pen if possible. You want to give your horse enough room to move freely but not so much that he can run off and hide. If you have the space, consider giving the primary subject a friend to play with. Often they will have more fun than one horse alone and look happier. However, too many horses will increase the odds of being run over if you are concentrating on your viewfinder.
Select a portion of the paddock with an attractive fence and a fairly clean background. The sun should not be in your face. If you have horses in an adjoining paddock or pasture, they will likely come over to see what’s happening and contribute to a distracting background. Your horses will perform best if the fence line is 150 to 200 feet long. You will want your camera to use a fast shutter for action shots, so bright light is important. This might be the one time bright mid-day sun will give good pictures.
You will need two assistants to keep the horses moving back and forth along the chosen fence line. They should try to keep the horses animated and moving but not running about in a panic; sweaty horses do not make good subjects. If the horses become too wild, have everyone take a time-out until things settle down, then begin again.
Stand back about 40 to 50 feet from the fence. If your viewfinder shows two fence sections (about 16 feet), you are probably in a good position. Pre-focus on the ground or on the fence where you plan to take the picture. Have your assistants encourage the horse to move along the fence and snap the shutter as the horse passes along this point. After taking a number of shots in this manner try “panning”. Pre-focus on the ground or fence again but this time snap the picture as you follow the horse for a couple of yards. This is the perfect time to use the “burst” feature if your camera has one.
This is one time when you will want to allow some space around the horse in the viewfinder. Since you will be “leading” the horse or following him with the camera, it will be easy to cut off some vital parts. Unless you are looking for a close-up, make sure you get the entire horse. You can crop out the excess space later.

7. Any final suggestions?