The Great Florida Cattle Drive '06
Experience
a piece of living history.
Story by
Lydia Boenig
Photos by Andrea Arnow
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Technological
advances, new management practices and the sheer hardship
of the lifestyle have contributed to the near extinction of
working cow hunters, also known as Floridian cowboys. Despite
the culture shift, there are still some who believe they were
born a hundred years too late, that saddle sores and calluses
earned from a long day’s work are worth the peaceful
night’s sleep and clear conscience of really earning
a living. The Great Florida Cattle Drive ‘06 offered
a chance to experience that emotion.
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Riders
drove 500 head of Cracker Cattle 50 miles from St. Cloud to
the Silver Spurs Arena in Kenansville. |
Many
2006 riders remember the drive of 1995 when 1,000 head of
Cracker cattle were herded 70 miles in six days to end up
at the Silver Spurs arena in Kissimmee. This drive commemorated
Florida’s 150th birthday by celebrating its rich ranching
traditions. On December 5, 2006, 450 riders gathered to once
again make history. This time, 500 head of Cracker cattle,
supplied by the Seminole Tribe of Florida, were driven 50
miles from St. Cloud to the Silver Spurs new location in Kenansville.
Seminole Feed’s Lydia Boenig joined the drive and chronicles
her adventures.
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The
Beginning of a Journey
Just
a short stretch south of Florida’s most visited tourist
city, Orlando, an open pasture was transformed into a cow
camp in a matter of hours. Our excursion began at the Whaley
Ranch, south of St. Cloud, where horses, people and gear were
unloaded from rigs of every description. The participants
then relinquished control of their fate for the next four
days as the trucks were hauled away, and we were left with
only our horses, our tents and our sense of adventure.
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Sunrise the first morning of the drive. |
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we made camp, it was time to stretch our horses’ legs
and make sure they were ready for what lay ahead, whatever that
might be. A few laps around the pasture proved a nice way to
switch gears from interstate to cow-path, but the smell of barbeque
caused most of the riders to call it a day and picket their
horses. Our meals were wonderfully catered. Under the big top,
we munched ribs, salad, corn on the cob and sweet tea while
a buzz of excitement rippled through the conversation. The stock
was equally well-nourished. Seminole Feed, the event sponsor,
supplied each of the 450 + horses and 500 cattle with top quality
Seminole feed and hay throughout the duration of the drive.
The evening wrapped with a quick meeting held by each circle
boss with his/ her circle just to be sure we knew when to be
ready in the morning. Each half-day a different circle would
get to be right up with the cattle, with the other riders following
behind the herd. |
Day One: The Adventure Begins
Wednesday broke cool and foggy – and soggy for those picketed
out in the open! The first bull whip cracked by 4:30 a.m., and
by 5:00 every boy under 15 had his whip out making sure the
rest of the riders didn’t miss breakfast! It was a serene
scene with hundreds of people quietly working in the morning
mist, and after a quick bite, we were ready to go.
Shortly thereafter we had our first glimpse of the cattle. Mike
Wilder, the “cow boss”, and the cow hunters (the
professionals who stayed with the cattle at all times) had gathered
them up from their night pasture and paraded them right through
what had been our bedroom just hours earlier. It was like a
scene from an old western movie – cattle of every color
and a good set of horns on each – a team roper’s
dream come true! |
Seminole Feed donated all of the feed and hay for the
cattle and horses during the event. |
The
first stretch in our journey was likely the most hazardous as
everyone had to adjust to the cattle, the other horses, the
bottlenecks and the terrain. We rode a mile down the fence in
the camp pasture, and then 3,800 hooves had to cross the road.
All manner of vehicle with flashing lights was there to help
us, but as you can imagine, some of the horses would rather
have army crawled through a snake pit than pass those monsters!
This
was my first chance to realize the diversity of the people and
animals on this journey. There were seasoned trail riders, ranchers,
barrel racers, ropers, day hands, endurance riders, and some
in a western saddle for the first time ever! They rode Quarter
Horses, Cracker Horses, Appaloosas, Arabs, Paso Finos, mules,
Paints, Walking Horses, and more. The wagons were just as amazing
– buck boards, covered wagons, restored authentic jobs,
home-made jobs and buggies – pulled by Belgians, Percherons,
mammoth Jacks and mules.
Cattle walk slower than the average horse, so there was plenty
of time to observe the scenery. There was no road noise, no
pavement, no condos or “big box” stores; only the
cheerful banter of the riders rose above the hoof beats to disturb
the tranquility. This is the Florida of years past. Many of
the parents on this ride participated specifically so their
children could experience the Florida of their ancestors. There’s
no telling how long even this remote slice of the state will
remain unspoiled by the “advances and conveniences”
of progress. |
A
sack lunch in an oak hammock more than satisfied the masses;
in fact, much of the mid-day meal was consumed a-horseback because
some had to get back to the cattle so the others could eat too.
In my situation, it was best that way because my borrowed cow
horse, Bubba, had an unquenchable hankering for whatever was
in my paper sack! The noon-time sun and our full bellies made
for a relaxed afternoon.
The day’s ride ended with a mad dash (like the land rush
of a century ago) for a spot to tie out for the night in the
few oaks spotted around the prairie. The evening’s entertainment
included re-enactors of Florida history and a meal cooked by
a Food Network chef. The whole process was filmed by network
television to be included in an upcoming series “Dinner
Impossible.” While the cuisine could not have been farther
from a “cowboy dinner”, it was excellent: frog legs,
beef stew, pasta salad and catfish soup. To witness the story
telling and singing around campfires that evening was really
a treat and easily transported us back to a simpler time. |
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Day 2: More Ground to Cover
Thursday brought unending surprises. Once again the weather
started out foggy, and we were on our way earlier, as we had
more ground to cover. This was the most beautiful part of
the entire ride. Deer bounded through the palmettos, and we
spotted red-tailed hawks circling above us while a few small
herds of cattle watched us pass by. The country was wide open
with sparse live oaks dotting the spaces. With the participants
used to the idea of staying on the move, things went much
more smoothly. And what a delight to visit with new friends
made around campfires the night before!
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Just
before lunch we rode up on historic Nine Cabbages, a vast
prairie right at the edge of Lake Kissimmee. There are actually
only seven large palm trees on this prairie because a hurricane
a few years ago claimed the other two. When the cattle smelled
the water, they made a bee-line for the lake, and some of
the horses were more than ready for a splash in the cool water,
too! Credit must be given here to the reporters and photographers
that documented this adventure in its entirety. They walked
miles every day, rode on the back of other people’s
horses and wagons and even slogged through the mud on the
lake shore to get the best shot possible.
The refreshed cattle became a little friskier as we pushed
them out on the trail again. Each rider took his/her responsibility
seriously, though. No sooner would a steer make a break for
freedom than a handful of eager horsemen changed his mind!
The constant roar of a media helicopter hovering over us as
we held the cattle at lunch time broke the peace. |
Don’t
call ‘em a cowboy! Traditionally, Florida cattlemen are
known as “Cow Hunters.” |
As soon as we were mounted up after eating, a few splats of
rain fell, and 450 slickers, mostly yellow, were grabbed off
cantles and out of saddle bags. It looked like a giant had
stomped through a field, scattering bright butterflies as
everyone flung them on. The rain only lasted a short time,
but it did cool things off. It was the first sign of the change
in weather, a preview for what was to come.
That evening we stayed at the Overstreet Ranch where there
was more than enough space to spread out and plenty of great
food right on the lake. The proximity of the lake and lack
of windbreak made for a chilly evening. The wind howled off
the water and at one point our tent completely collapsed!
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Day
3: The Longest Day
Friday morning was more than a little brisk. The horses were
fresh, the cattle tired and the people rigid in their saddles,
drinking coffee by the gallon. This was a trying day. The weather
had the riders rethinking their dreams of living outside, though
hardship always has a way of bringing people closer together.
The cattle crew took the cattle out about an hour before the
rest of the group, so the pace was brisk as the trail wandered
through open pastures and along wide dirt roads. |
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We
saw numerous eagles’ nests, but wildlife was scarce on
this blustery day. It never became warm, but the edge fell off
the wind around 11 a.m. By lunch time we had caught back up
to the cattle. From then on, there was only a path wide enough
for two steers or two horses. It blazed through pine forests
and dense palmettos, and the going was tedious as our herd stretched
over a mile long. We covered 18 miles on Friday, and many would
have said it was 30. The wind-blown look was the fashion statement
of the day.
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By
the time we rode into our last campground, someone with a portable
shower could have made a nice profit off the participants! It
was near dark and downright cold when we began to set up camp.
Once we had tended the horses and were set up for the night,
the steak dinner seemed like a mirage. It was definitely one
of the best meals I have ever had. There was less visiting on
this night, warm sleeping bags won out over scrounging for firewood
and standing in the cold! Spirits were still high, though, looking
forward to the celebration to come.
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Day 4: A Journey’s End
The short three mile ride to our final destination seemed
like a light warm-up! It was sunny again, and a bittersweet
feeling filled the air. We were excited about bringing in
the herd, but felt acute realization that our journey was
now over. The reality is that cities will continue to sprawl,
and snowbirds will continue to “discover” Florida.
Other economic demands will be made on the land, and property
values will continue to skyrocket. So, this could be the last
big round-up in Osceola County, and maybe in Florida. Of course,
ranchers will continue to adapt to the changing times as they
always have, but certain treasured ways of life are sure to
be lost. Hopefully, the experience of the Great Florida Cattle
Drive ‘06 has lodged itself in the hearts of some who
will fight to preserve Florida’s deep ranching roots.
For me, the Drive of ‘06 may not have changed my life
but it certainly enhanced it. I will be able to say to the
next generation, “I saw Florida when …”
A borrowed horse and a few days out in the open left me refreshed
and interested in other niches of Florida’s ranching
history. Bubba and I went back to our respective jobs, as
did the others on the ride, some more and some less enthusiastic
about living as a working cowhunter. One thing is for sure
for all of us: the soreness and trail-weariness of this event
will long be outlasted by the smiles, pictures and memories.
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Lydia
is an equine nutrition consultant for Seminole Feed
and rode on the Great Florida Cattle Drive of ’06.
She graduated from Texas A&M University with a degree
in Animal Science.. |
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